Sudhagad Fort Trek: Once a competitor for capital

Image courtesy: N.R Sharma

Sudhagad Fort Trek: Once a competitor for capital

When I was going through my hiking list, I realized that I have not covered many popular hiking spots near Lonavala and Pune side. Most of the hiking spots I have covered were near Mumbai. Therefore, this year I decided to try and cover those popular hiking destinations towards Lonavala and Pune. Luckily, I have come across an amazing group of hikers from Thane through a common hiking friend.  They hike almost every weekend. All are very passionate and experienced hikers, possess good knowledge about the different routes.  Luckily my goal synced well with their wish list and they invited me to trek with them.  That’s how we decided to hike Sudhagad Fort on Last weekend of January 2021.  Sudhagad fort is also known as Bhorapgad, located near Pali, Maharashtra. The fort was named Bhorapgad after the Goddess Bhoraidevi. While selecting the capital of Swarajya, Sudhagad fort was a strong competitor along with the Raigad.

Sudhagad trek is a pleasant trek that every trekker must visit once. It is more beautiful during the Monsoon. Tail Baila, Ghangad Fort is seen clearly from the top. Night stay and camping is possible on the top.

Trek Details:

 Type: Hill Fort

Grade: Easy

Endurance level: Medium

Climbing Time: 1 hr

Height: 620 meters

Best time: Monsoon & Winter

Base: Thakurwadi / Dhondase

Nearest railway station: Nagothane /Khopoli

Location: Raigad District of Maharashtra

 

How to Reach Sudhagad

Sudhagad Fort has two base village.  

1.    Dhondase Village:  If you are taking this route, first you have to reach Pali, one of the famous places of Ashtavinayak (one of the eight Ganpati temple) You will get a bus from the ST bus stand which goes up to the Dhondase. Village. This route is more difficult and steep. Not well marked but you will come across river Datpadi, Kasarpeth Maruti, and Mahadev temples on the way. This route will approximately take two hours to the top. This route becomes more tricky in Monsoon.

2.    Thakurwadi Village: If you are taking this route, again you have to reach Pali and then bus to Thakurwadi via Pachapur village. If you are coming by private vehicle, it is just half an hour from Pali to Thakurwadi. Ever since they installed the new Iron ladders, this route has become much easier and safer. It takes one hour for ascending to the top of the fort. This route is now become more popular and preferred by trekkers.

 From Pune

Bus: There is a direct bus available to Pali (111 km) from Pune. From Pali, you can take a bus or private cab to Thakurwadi (base village).

By train: No direct trains available but you can come via Khopoli – opt for a bus or private car to Pali and then Thakurwadi village.

From Mumbai

Bus: Direct bus available to Pali (98 km) and Pali you can take a bus to Thakurwadi (base village).

By train: No direct train available. Take a train up to Khopoli then opts for a bus to Pali and Pali to Thakurwadi.

If you are coming by your private vehicle, follow the same route. Khopoli-Pali-Thakurwadi

 Places to visit at Sudhagad Fort

There are temples of Goddess Bhorai Devi, Lord Shiva, and Hanuman.

• Pant Sachiv Wada(Mansion)
• Ponds
• Deep Mal
• Beautifully curved mausoleums near temple premises
• Sarkarwada temple
• Maha Darwaja (Dindi Darwaja)
• Pachchapur Darwaja
• Chor Darwaja (Secret door)
• Ambarkhana
• Bastions of the fort well in condition
• Remains of old structure

Brief History:

Sudhagad Fort  is one of the strongest and attractive fort of Shivaji’s time. Due to the two caves (Thanale Caves and Khadsamble caves near the fort, it has come to the conclusion that, Sudhagad fort might have been constructed two centuries. It was then called Bhrorapgad (after its presiding deity, Bhoraidevi). 9Bhorai Devi on the fort is a family deity of  Pant Sachiv of Bhor. The temple was constructed in 1750. According to legend, The Bhorai Devi idol was installed by Bhrugurishi. The Marathas took over and renamed it “Sudhagad” (the sweet one). It was a large fort and replica of Raigad. Sudhagad was considered by Shivaji as the capital of Swarajya. He surveyed it but instead chose Raigad because of its central location.

In the regime of the Peshwas, the ‘Pant Sachivas’ of Bhor became the custodians of this fort. After the annexation of princely states in 1950, the fort became patronless. As a result, the fort is in dilapidated condition.

My Journey to Sudhagad Fort:

I joined with six other passionate hikers from  Thane for the Sudhagad Fort trek.  we moved out early morning around 3am (30^th Jan 2021) from Thane. The plan is to cover two forts in a day. Sudhagad and Sarasgad fort which is located near to each other and also witnesses the Sunrise view from the top as well. Our journey was smooth till Khopoli and from there we had to go off the highway and our driver is not much familiar with the road. The network is going off and on. We once took a wrong turn and reached back to the highway. Roads are a bit confusing at night.  However, with the help of Google map and my teammate navigation skills, we managed to reach Thakurwadi.  The most challenging part of traveling at night is, the road seems to be more confusing due to poor visibility and many small turns, and no one in sight for the right directions. The Google map shows that we reached our destination but later on we realized that, we reached Pachapur village. We also need to use our navigation skills along with the technology. Can’t fully depend on technology. Thakurwadi village is still half an hour away from Pachapur. We got back into the car and moved ahead. 

Trek starting point 

Good parking space

When we reached Thakurwadi, there is enough space to park our vehicle, and the trek route entry point is also easily located and since we have done some homework.  It was already 5.30 am and we started our trek with great excitement. The fresh cool breeze is very encouraging and sets the mood for a good hike. 

We had to walk across the village for two minutes and the trails leads to the open ground. The trail is straight and well-marked. There are signed boards put up throughout the trail. From there, 

                                                  Gradual ascend                                                       

we walked across the forest to the first iron ladder. The trail leads towards the gradual ascent crossing after the first ladder and up to the second ladder. They have installed new

and strong iron ladders. 

1st Iron ladder

That is for the safety of the villagers when they go up to seek the blessing from Bhorai Devi and the annual Yatra. 

A second photogenic Iron ladder

The old ladder which is now not in use. 

This two ladder has benefited a lot from the trekkers as well. From here you can see one side of the fort. After 20 minutes of ascending, the trail leads us towards the left side of the foothills and then slowly ascending towards the Pachapur Darwaja. 

Approaching near to Pachhapur Darwaja

After 15 to 20 minutes of ascent, we reached the bottom of the Pachapur Darwaja. Which is guarded by two bastions. 

Pachhapur Darwaja(test your endurance level)

This is one of the main entry points into the fort and another one is from the Mahadarwaja (Dindi Darwaja) which is an entry point from the Dhondase village. We had to climb the steep uphill steps to enter through the Mahadarwaja. This patch becomes challenging during the Monsoon as there is rainwater flows along with the soil and stones. Once we reached the base of the fort. Just on the left side of the Bastion, there is one Chor Darwaja (Secret door).  We get good views of one side of the fort. We took five minutes’ to catch up our breath and enjoyed the views of nearby regions. 

 

Last leg of ascending to the top

After five minutes, we ascent for the last leg of our journey towards the top of the fort. It took us 20 minutes to reach the top of the fort. We just managed to witness the sunrise view when we were about to reach the top. 

Big plateau on the top

Beautiful Pond 

Shivlink temple near the lake

The top of the fort has a big plateau and there are few ruined structures have been seen and towards the left side, there is a small Shivling temple and a beautiful lake near to each other. The lake is not visible from the plateau. It is just behind the temple. 

 

There is a water tank towards the left side of the plateau. We decided to walk straight towards the Pant Sachiv Wada (Mansion).

Turn right for the Pant Sachiv Wada

Pant SachivWada(Mansion)

Sudhagad fort map inside the mansion

 The mansion is not visible from the plateau too. We just have to walk straight and turn right. We had our breakfast over there and rested for few minutes. 

Breakfast time

Already many trekkers have arrived earlier.  This mansion has become the trekker's shelter for night stay and resting room. It can easily accommodate 50 trekkers. There is a local family who is serving Breakfast and lunch, Mineral water, tea, etc. You have to order in advance. 

Towards the main attractions of the fort

We then moved further to explore other important sites. We followed the signboard direction and reached a point where there are two routes. 

Choor Darwaja( Secret door)

One route which leads towards the Chor Darwaja ( safe entry to the king and queen) and another route lead us towards another tabletop area where all the main attraction of the forts have located. 

                  Deepmal 

Borai Devi temple: Borai Devi is a family deity of Pant Sachivas

Hero stone: a memorial in honour of  Heroes who died in battle

Tomb of the fort

Maruti temple

Goddess Bhorai Devi temple, Deepmal in front of the temple. Lord Shiva temple, Hanuman temple on the right side. Many tombs near the temple area. Towards the right side, there is a place called TAKMAK Tok. 

Tail Baila  can be seen clearly

You will see Tail Baila, Ghangad fort clearly from this point. In Monsoon, this point becomes very windy and difficult to see because it is covered by tall and fresh grasses.

Rightside of the Borai Devi temple: Ruined structures

Topkhana

 If you moved towards the extreme right, there is a ruined structure of arms storage house and there is supposed to be a lake too but dried due to heat. The lake will be available only in Monsoon. There is an open Hanuman temple, below that there is a broad trail that runs between the forest which leads towards the Maha Darwaja. 

MahaDarwaja route

It is not visible from the Boria Devi temple.  We had to descend towards the forest area and after 15 minutes of walk, we reached Dindi Darwaja (Maha Darwaja). Another entry point, if we trek from Dhondase Village, you will reach Dindi Darwaja.   

Image courtesy: N.S.Sharma

MahaDarwaja(Dindi Darwaja)

It seems that the MahaDarwaja was restored recently and looks new. This door is a replica of Raigad fort Maha Darwaja. This entry point was built in such a way that the door was hidden between the two strong Bastions. It is not visible from the top and from the entry point.  We then return back to Bhorai Devi temple and rested there some time under the shade and had some refreshment to recharge ourselves for the return journey. We started our return journey from the same route. We paid a quick visit to the Shivling temple and the lake. To our surprise the lake water was cold and we put our feet into the water for some time. Such a big relief to my sweaty feet.  Some of our members preferred to stay here for some more time but we had to leave as we have another fort to cover. We are already running behind our schedule time. Finally, we started descending, which is always much easier than ascending for me. Within one hour, we touch the base village. We stop for another refreshment break in between. 

After seeing the remains of the fort, such as Pant Sachiv Mansion, Bhorai Devi temple, MahaDarwaja, and the remnant structure, all these will clearly enlighten its importance and a sign of past glory.

 

Team Sudhagad Fort trek

TIPS:

• Wear a comfortable hiking shoe.

• Cap, UV sunglass, and sunscreen lotion are a must.

• A good rain jacket is a must protect to protect yourself and your backpack if you are visiting in Monsoon.

• Carry at least 2-liter water bottles and some ready to eat snacks.

• Leave the trail, not the trash. Bring your trash back to the city and dispose of it in a dustbin.

• Be sensitive towards villagers when you are interacting with them.

• Respect the culture and beliefs of the local people.

• Suddhagad fort is one of the important forts in Sahyadri and a very pleasant trekking destination. Every nature lover or hikers must visit this fort once. Especially in Monsoon.